What’s on in Zürich: an FT Globetrotter guide

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Zürich

It probably came as no surprise to the locals, but in a recent European Commission report, Zürich was crowned most liveable city on the continent, with a satisfaction rate of 97 per cent. Personal finances, public transport, LGTBQ+ inclusivity, healthcare, air quality . . . Zürich topped the league for all of them — as it did for its cultural landscape. For while Zürich may be compact, it packs a punch on the arts and festivals front, with a depth and diversity matching that of much larger cities. Major exhibitions dedicated to Swiss ur-Modernist Ferdinand Hodler, Marina Abramović, depictions of the body in medieval art, and the luscious landscapes of the late Canadian artist Matthew Wong (displayed alongside paintings and drawings by Van Gogh)? They’re all on the agenda this year, as well as music ranging from Puccini to Aussie pop sensation Troye Sivan; choreographies exploring the lives and work of Nijinksy and Jacqueline du Pré; the world’s biggest techno party; and a mass-dance event in the city’s main train station. And that’s not forgetting summer festivals aplenty, the nation’s No. 1 Pride celebration, a wine fair on the lake and, to round off the year, 300 Santas swimming across the Limmat.

On now

Art

‘À Propos Hodler’, Kunsthaus Zürich

One of the giants of Swiss art, Ferdinand Hodler (1853-1918) was also a leading figure in early modernism. See 60 key paintings placed in conversation with works by 30 contemporary artists, including David Hockney, Ugo Rondinone and the late Mexican-American photographer Laura Aguilar. Until June 30; further information and tickets here

‘Close-up’, Landesmusuem

Four men behind the cameras during the production of the 1938 Swiss drama ‘Füsilier Wipf’ — Behind the cameras during the production of ‘Füsilier Wipf’, a 1938 Swiss drama set in the first world war © Cinémathèque suisse

Praesens-Film, Switzerland’s oldest surviving film company, turns 100 this year. This exhibition is both an ode to the pioneering group itself and a history of the nation’s cinema. Until April 21; further information and tickets here

‘A Show of Affection: Collection Constellation 1’, Fotomuseum Winterthur

Iranian-born photographer Shirana Shahbazi’s ‘Komposition-12-2011’: an abstract work of squares and triangles in blue, pink, orange, black and red — Works featured in ‘A Show of Affection’ include Iranian-born photographer Shirana Shahbazi’s ‘Komposition-12-2011’ . . . © Shirana Shahbazi

Shirana Shahbazi’s ‘Komposition-40-2011’: a black background on which sit three balls of different sizes in red, yellow and white — . . . and her ‘Komposition-40-2011’

To mark its 30th anniversary, Fotomuseum Winterthur draws on work from its archives by 19 photographers/artists, among them Cindy Sherman, Nan Goldin and Shirana Shahbazi. Until May 20; further information and tickets here

‘Kiki Kogelnik: Retrospective’, Kunsthaus Zürich

‘Superserpent’, 1974, by Kiki Kogelnik: a Pop-Art painting of an alarmed-looking woman in a purple-striped suit and hair made up of blue snakes holding a green serpent — ‘Superserpent’, 1974, by Kiki Kogelnik

The first Swiss retrospective dedicated to the late Austrian Pop artist and sculptor Kiki Kogelnik features 150 works created over four decades. Known for her experiments with collage and materials such as vinyl, Kogelnik powerfully — and playfully — examined the politics of gender and sexual identity, as well as ethical concerns about emerging technologies. Until July 14; further information and tickets here

‘Coveted. Cared for. Martyred: Bodies in the Middle Ages’, Landesmuseum Zürich

An exploration of corporeality in the art of the Middle Ages, looking at representations of everything from “sinful” figures of desire to the martyred and worshipped bodies of Jesus and the saints. Until July 14; further information and tickets here

May

Festival

Zürich Tanzt (Zürich Dances)

Hundreds of people beneath a giant blue sign that says ‘Zürich Tanzt’ in the city’s main train station — Zürich Tanzt’s event in the city’s main train station

This dance festival attracts 10,000 people every year to events at 20 venues across the city — such as the one at Zürich HB, the main train station, where the audiences are invited to take part in different styles of dance, from breakdance to salsa and swing. May 3 to 12; further information and tickets here

June

Art

‘David Armstrong’, Kunsthalle Zürich

Actor and writer Cookie Mueller as photographed by David Armstrong: a black and white photograph from the 1970s of a woman with long blond hair leaning against a wall — ‘Cookie at Bleecker St NYC’, 1977, by David Armstrong © Courtesy of the Estate of David Armstrong

The late Boston School photographer David Armstrong made tender and intimate portraits of creatives in countercultural New York, including Jean-Michel Basquiat, filmmaker John Waters and the actor and writer Cookie Mueller (who appeared in Waters’ early movies). This is the first European retrospective of Armstrong’s work. June 9 to September 15; further information and tickets here

‘Born Digital: Video Art in the New Millennium’, Kunsthaus Zürich

‘A Woman under the Influence – to cut a long story short’, 2004, by Tatjana Marušic: four stills in various degrees of pixellation of a woman screaming — ‘A Woman under the Influence — to cut a long story short’, 2004, by Tatjana Marušic © Tatjana Marušic

The Kunsthaus Zürich is home to one of Switzerland’s largest collections of media art — a fact celebrated at this show of 10 works created during the first five years of the new millennium by video and digital artists such as Tatjana Marušić and Com & Com. June 7 to September 29; further information and tickets here

Performances

‘Das Land des Lächelns’ (‘The Land of Smiles’), Opernhaus Zürich

Perhaps best known for its much-loved aria “Dein ist mein ganzes Herz” (later recorded in English as “Yours Is My Heart Alone” by, among others, Frank Sinatra and Mario Lanza), Franz Lehár’s romantic operetta from 1929 traces the bittersweet love story of a noble Viennese woman and a Chinese diplomat. Polish tenor Potr Beczała and German soprano Julia Kleiter sing the leads in this production by Opernhaus Zürich’s Andreas Homoki, with British conductor Paul Daniel on the podium. June 21, 25 and 29, and July 2 and 5; further information and tickets here

Troye Sivan, The Hall

The Australian singer-songwriter and LGBTQ+ activist’s Something to Give Each Other was easily one of the best pop albums of 2023, its dizzying highs balanced with more introspective moments. See him on the Zürich stop of his 17-date European tour this summer. June 15; further information and tickets here

‘Nijinski’, Opernhaus Zurich

With Debussy’s “Prélude à l’après-midi d’un faune” and Chopin’s two piano concertos providing the musical framework, Marco Goecke’s paean to the early-20th-century Russian ballet dancer and choreographer focuses on his distinctive body language and radical work. June 14 to 23; further information and tickets here

‘The Cellist’, Opernhaus Zürich

Two male and a female ballet dancer in contemporary clothing in Cathy Marston’s ‘The Cellist’ — Cathy Marston’s ‘The Cellist’ is based on the life of Jacqueline du Pré

Created by British choreographer Cathy Marston for the Royal Ballet in London, this powerful piece follows the life story of the late British cellist Jacqueline du Pré, placing her “symbiotic relationship” with her instrument front and centre. The music, from du Pré’s own repertoire, includes works by Elgar, Mendelssohn and Rachmaninoff. June 26 and 27; further information and tickets here

Event

Zürich Pride 2024

A man in an orange feather headdress and leather chest harness surrounded by other attendees of Zürich Pride 2023 — Last year’s Zürich Pride © Alamy Stock Photo

Join 70,000 revellers at Switzerland’s biggest LGBTQ+ celebration, with the annual parade followed by a festival-style party in the Landiwiese park on the lake. June 14 and 15; further information here

July

Performance

‘Turandot’, Opernhaus Zürich

A scene from Opernhaus Zürich’s production of Puccini’s ‘Turandot’, with a soprano in a red and black robe and elaborate black headpiece — Opernhaus Zürich’s production of Puccini’s ‘Turandot’ © Monika Rittershaus

German opera director Sebastian Baumgarten’s dazzling staging of Puccini’s unfinished masterpiece challenges the orientalism of the original narrative, bringing a contemporary sheen to the work. Italian soprano Anna Pirozzi sings the role of the titular princess, while Italian tenor Piero Pretti is her suitor, Prince Calaf. June 30 and July 3, 6, 9 and 12; further information and tickets here

Cinema

Allianz Cinema

The open-air cinema on the shores of Lake Zürich draws 50,000 movie fans every year to a month-long bill ranging from Hollywood blockbusters to arthouse hits. July 18 to August 18; further information and tickets here

August

Festivals and events

Zürcher Theater Spektakel

One of Europe’s most important celebrations of theatre, dance and music, Zürcher Theater Spektakel returns for its 44th edition. Enjoy excellent productions and performances under the open sky on the shores of Lake Zürich. August 15 to September 1; further information and tickets here

Street Parade

The biggest techno street party in the world sees hundreds of thousands of revellers following the “Love Mobiles” as they make their way around the lake. One of the major highlights of the city’s summer festivities also features electronica of all kinds, from house and dubstep to trance and electro. August 10; further information here

Dörflifäscht

For two days, the historic Niederdorf quarter (which the locals call “Dörfli”) is transformed into a joyous outdoor party. Find market stalls between Central and Bellevue, as well as open-air live music from bands and DJs. August 23 to 25; further information here

September

Art

‘Matthew Wong — Vincent van Gogh’, Kunsthalle Zürich

‘Coming of Age Landscape’, 2018, by Matthew Wong: an intensely coloured abstract painting of a yellow and green field with an indigo sky and white sun on the horizon — ‘Coming of Age Landscape’, 2018, by Matthew Wong © ProLitteris, Zürich

The technicolour landscapes of the late Canadian painter and draughtsman Matthew Wong were inspired by both traditional Chinese painting and western art. He was particularly influenced by van Gogh, a selection of whose works will be placed alongside 45 paintings and drawings by Wong in their Swiss debut. September 20 to January 26 2025; further information and tickets here

Zürich Design Weeks

People looking at various installations, including mirrored ones, at the Design Biennale Zürich held in the city’s Old Botanical Garden — The Design Biennale Zürich is held in the city’s Old Botanical Garden © Lea Della Zassa

For almost three weeks, designers, showrooms and brands open their doors to showcase their creative output. Highlights include the Design Biennale Zürich in the Old Botanical Garden and the Poster Safari at various locations across the city. September 12 to 29; further information and tickets here

October

‘Marina Abramović’, Kunsthalle Zürich

Marina Abramović in a long red dress sitting at a table in her ‘The Artist Is Present’ piece at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, 2010. A man with a shaved head is sitting opposite her and spectators are watching from a distance — Marina Abramović in her ‘The Artist Is Present’ piece at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, 2010 © Marco Anelli. © Courtesy of the Marina Abramović Archives

The first Swiss retrospective dedicated to Abramović, with performances, videos, installations and sculptures from across the art superstar’s long career. October 25 to February 16 2025; further information and tickets here

Festivals

Zürich Film Festival

The second-largest film festival in the German-speaking world draws big names from around the world, with last year’s guests including directors Wim Wenders, Margarethe von Trotta and Todd Haynes, and actors Diane Kruger, Mads Mikkelsen and Jessica Chastain. Expect a similarly starry turnout for its 20th edition, alongside international premieres, events and workshops. October 3 to 13; further information and tickets here

Expovina Wine Fair

Every year, this charming — and incredibly popular — wine fair is held on 12 boats on Lake Zürich. There are usually about 160 producers highlighting wines from more than 20 countries. October 31 to November 14; further information here

November

Internationale Kurzfilmtage Winterthur (International Short Film Festival)

This leading short-film festival in Switzerland attracts thousands of cinephiles every year. At the heart of the event are the international and Swiss competitions. As well as screenings, there will be concerts, talks and parties galore. November 5 to 10; further information here

December

Events

Zürcher Samichlausschwimmen (Züricher Santa Claus Swim)

A man dressed as Santa Claus and other swimmers in yellow bathing caps in the River Limmat — Father Christmas and friends take to the River Limmat in an annual Zürich tradition © Monika Metzger

Every year, some 300 brave souls don Father Christmas hats — or more complete Santa regalia — and swim across the ice-cold River Limmat to raise money for charity. Cheer them on from the sidelines if you don’t fancy taking a freezing festive plunge yourself. December 8; further information here

Wienachtsdorf (Christmas Village) at Sechseläutenplatz

An aerial photograph of Zürich’s Christmas village at dusk — Zürich’s Christmas village © Alex Buschor

Held between the Opera House and the lake shore, Zürich’s pretty Christmas village is made up of 120 stalls selling artisanal crafts and local culinary delights. Dates to be announced; further information here

Please tell us in the comments below about any other 2024 calendar highlights for Zürich that other readers might like to know about

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