The island has just a little more than 4,000 residents, or Saints as they call themselves, and is likely to attract a certain kind of visitor. “It’s people with a real desire to travel and learn rather than, ‘let’s go somewhere to have a bit of sunshine and some nice food’,” says Emma Phillips, whose husband, Nigel, is St Helena’s governor.
After all, weather can be unpredictable and supplies occasionally run low when you’re 1,900km (1,200 miles) from the nearest continent.
“You’ve got to be prepared to embrace all of that,” Phillips says, while extolling the island’s welcoming locals, rich history and natural wonders. “Come with an open mind.”
Perhaps best known as the site of Napoleon Bonaparte’s exile from 1815 until his death, in 1821, St Helena has heritage sites honouring the deposed French emperor, including his homes and original burial ground (his remains were returned to France in 1840).
The capital city, Jamestown, is an eclectic mix of new and old. British Georgian-era colonial buildings house small retail and grocery stores. There are a couple of DVD rental shops – remnants of the time before the island had high-speed internet.
For a workout with a view, climb the 699 steps of Jacob’s Ladder, on the edge of the city. The outdoor staircase that ascends 180 metres (600ft) was originally a track for carts pulled by donkeys, used to transport goods between the city and fortifications on the cliffs above.
Plantation House, 3.5km south of the capital, is a grand Georgian mansion built in 1792 by the British East India Company, which administered St Helena until 1834.
Now the governor’s official residence, the house features a collection of royal portraits and original furnishings, including antique china and a chandelier from Bonaparte’s final home.
Plantation House’s well-manicured garden is home to one of the island’s most famous residents, a venerable tortoise named Jonathan. With an approximate age of 192, Jonathan holds the Guinness World Record for the oldest living land animal.
“Jonathan is an enigmatic tortoise,” says Teeny Lucy, his caretaker for over a decade. “If you come to St Helena, people usually know two things: Jonathan the tortoise and Napoleon Bonaparte.”
Jonathan has lost his sight and sense of smell, but remains a major draw for tourists like Gilly Hill, who travelled from Britain to snap selfies with him.
“I just think he’s the most amazing creature,” she said.
Other activities include swimming with Chilean devil rays or whale sharks, which are often spotted between December and March. There’s also humpback whale watching, from June to December.
Come in January to catch peak nesting season for the wirebird, also known as the St Helena plover, which can only be found on this island. It is one of more than 500 species are not seen anywhere else on Earth, including 45 flowering plants and ferns.
Microclimates that range from cool tropical forest to sunny rolling grassland and windswept volcanic cliffs can all be experienced within an hour’s drive.
With two dozen scenic trails to choose from, serious trekkers might head for the highest point, Diana’s Peak. The 3.7km hike takes you 820 metres above sea level and into Britain’s last remaining natural cloud forest.
Casual hikers can stroll along Blue Point Trail for views of Sandy Bay, Sperry Island and Castle Rock. For a moderate challenge, try the shaded hike to the Heart Shaped Waterfall, which flows only in winter and early spring.
Perched at 520 metres on one of the lushest and most remote parts of the island is a historic estate with sweeping cloud-forest views: Wranghams is a small coffee farm with tours and home stays, run by Neil and Debbie Fantom.
Coffee connoisseurs seek out St Helena’s beans, often touted as one of the rarest and most expensive varieties in the world because of their export costs and single-origin status. The coffee sells online for US$150 per 227 grams.
Extreme isolation has ensured that the coffee plants, which were imported from Yemen in the 18th century, have never been cross-fertilised.
“Is it the best in the world? I couldn’t tell you. Is it coffee that we enjoy producing and drinking? One hundred per cent,” Neil says. “We’ve got the perfect climate for it, and we do it ourselves.”
Other local culinary delights include plo, a cross between curry and Spanish paella; fresh fishcakes; and sponge cakes with bright pink icing known as coconut fingers.
Know before you go
Money: St Helena has no ATMs, credit cards are not widely accepted, and the local bank has limited hours. Be sure to bring British pounds to cover your stay and the £20 entry fee (about US$25). Another option is St Helena Bank’s prepaid Tourist Card app, which can be loaded with debit cards online and is accepted throughout the island.
Connectivity: download essentials like the Tourist Card app and offline Google maps before you arrive, as Wi-fi and mobile data is limited and expensive.
Getting there: Airlink flies once weekly from Johannesburg, South Africa. A midweek flight is often added during the busier summer season, December to March. You’ll need proof of medical insurance covering at least £175,000 to board the plane.
Where to stay: accommodation ranges from simple homestays to boutique hotels. The higher-end Mantis St Helena has 30 rooms and complimentary, reliable internet.
Getting around: St Helena’s narrow roads and blind curves are not for the faint of heart. If you’re comfortable driving manual cars on the left hand side of the road, rentals are available. Otherwise, taxis are your best option.
