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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Zürich
Through my work, I am constantly travelling, exploring cities across Europe, Asia and most recently the US and Oceania. But the place I know best and relish spending a weekend in whenever the opportunity arises is Zürich, the Swiss city that beautifully blends tradition and modernity, art and nature and where I can indulge my three true passions: football, culture and the culinary arts.
After an early-morning croissant and an espresso doppio on Bellevueplatz right in front of Lake Zürich, my weekend kicks off with a visit to the Kunsthaus, a treasure trove of international artistic wonders. I could spend weeks there. Its extensive collection boasts a diverse range of art, from classical to contemporary, creating an ideal bridge between my past life at Art Basel and my current role at the Fifa World Football Museum.
As an aficionado of art in all its forms, I am particularly captivated by the works of Marc Chagall, Alberto Giacometti, and Claude Monet. The Kunsthaus not only serves as a testament to Switzerland’s cultural heritage but also as an inspiring hub for creativity and expression.
Once back at Bellevue, I usually take a leisurely 20-minute walk into the centre of town along the serene shores of Lake Zürich. Its promenade offers an enchanting escape for both Zürich’s denizens and its guests. In proximity to Bellevue and the Opera House are Bürkliplatz, the city’s principal boat dock, and the dockside park Stadthausanlage, with its charming pavilion. Bürkliplatz stands as a pivotal hub for the vessels that grace the lake. The Stadthausanlage plays host to a weekly food and flower market, as well as a flea market from May to October.
My next stop is the Swiss National Museum (Landesmuseum Zürich), next to the Limmat river in the centre of town, where I delve into the rich tapestry of Swiss history and culture. The exhibitions are a fascinating journey through time, showcasing Switzerland’s transformation from its prehistoric roots to its modern identity. I am always particularly drawn to the Swiss watch collection, a testament to the country’s legendary craftsmanship. For me personally, it is an integral component of my passionate Swiss identity.
For Saturday night, I head to my favourite Italian restaurant in Zürich, Conti, located directly behind the Opera House. This restaurant is very special, tranquil and elegant, yet also lively and welcoming. It has a fantastic seasonal menu — the homemade pasta, in particular the tagliatelle al tartufo nero, comes highly recommended as does a bottle of Radici Riserva from Campania. It is the ideal setting after a wonderful day of art and culture.
Now it’s time to move! The second day of my perfect weekend in Zürich is dedicated to breathing and exploring more facets of the city and its surroundings. My morning starts with a delightful breakfast at one of the eateries on lively Idaplatz, which is my favourite square in downtown Zürich to meet people and to enjoy the city’s cultural diversity. Idaplatz has long served as a crucible of social engagement, offering not only an array of open-air events but also a range of culinary delights.
Any one of the alternative or trendy cafés in this district is the perfect energising start to a Sunday of outdoors, football and culture. The Calvados, a bar sportif, stands out as a haven for football aficionados. It is a perfect place to meet friends in the afternoon, sitting either on the terrace in the summer or inside, with its cosy interior decorated with photos of legendary soccer players and sportspeople. Later it will be doubtless full of fans who can watch a near-complete schedule of matches.
The Zürich Opera House, a world-renowned cultural institution, is my next destination. I had already passed it last night on my way to dinner, but now it’s worth enjoying a closer look at the facade of this extraordinary classic building in daylight. And of course, the operatic repertoire, rich with the works of Italian luminaries such as Verdi, Rossini, Puccini, and Donizetti, speaks to my Italian heritage.
On a Saturday or Sunday afternoon, a visit to one of Zürich’s two top-flight football clubs is a must. Whether it is a home match for FC Zürich or Grasshopper Club Zürich, experiencing the city’s passion and excitement for football is both fulfilling and fascinating at the same time.
For an outdoor activity, I head to the Uetliberg, Zürich’s picturesque and popular mountain, which offers the most breathtaking views of the city, the lake and the distant Alps. The hour-long hike is invigorating, and the panoramic vistas are a reminder of the stunning natural beauty just beyond the city limits. Another favourite hiking destination just two hours away by train, is Ticino, a region known for its mesmerising landscapes of lush forests, clear lakes, and charming villages.
To round up my perfect second day in Zürich, I like to dine at Sternen Grill. This place is just amazing — down to earth, with people with many different backgrounds and styles flocking there for the city’s best veal sausage with the spiciest mustard, a homemade potato salad and a beer from one of Switzerland’s newest regional breweries. Simply a true classic for every real Züricher in the heart of the old town.
Fifa Museum, Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zürich. Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10am–6pm
What does your perfect weekend in Zürich look like? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
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