This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Paris
SO/Paris, a new luxury hotel on the Rive Droite, is bringing an injection of glitz to a quiet stretch of the 4th arrondissement previously known for being a ghost town between Bastille and the Marais. With possibly the best views of the entire city and rooms starting at €500, it positions itself as being a “five-star hotel, but not a Palace hotel” — an increasingly popular way of demarcating itself from more trad luxury offerings — and is making waves among a well-heeled international fashion set, who block-booked it for the past two Paris fashion weeks. Fans of the hit Netflix series Emily in Paris have flocked to reserve room 1201, which stars for a nanosecond in series three (filmed before the hotel even opened) — an inspired piece of marketing.
But it hasn’t always been such a glamorous locale. Along with neighbouring Île de la Cité and Île St Louis, the area was once an island itself, known as Île Louviers, which was used in the 18th century as a sort of giant woodpile for Paris’s timber. In 1841, Louis Philippe ordered it to be attached to the Rive Droite and it has remained so ever since.
Set back from the Seine by one road, SO/Paris occupies one side of a reimagined 1960s complex of administrative offices, which was greenlit in 2014 as part of mayor Anne Hidalgo’s “Réinventer Paris” project to bring life to dormant areas of the city. The complex is now known as La Félicité, a mini village that prides itself on its mixité, comprising housing — both social and private — a crèche, youth hostel, several floors of office space and a very good boulangerie.
SO/Paris itself has been designed by RDAI architects to be timeless yet à la mode — a tricky combination that they get largely right. A high-ceilinged retro-futuristic lobby sets the tone with walls of orange mirrors and vast terrazzo and concrete pillars. The only jarring element was a seasonal capsule collection from department store Printemps displayed in one corner. Staff uniforms — they prefer the term “vestiaire” or wardrobe — consist of silky short dresses for women and, for check-in staff, colourful takes on the classic Breton jumper from Patou.
Accommodation is between the seventh and 14th floors, and room categories are according to view rather than room size (although there are a selection of suites too). My room on the 14th floor was in the top “Iconic — Paris Skyline” category (the next is “Rooftop” with views over Bastille, and the more vaguely named “Collection” rooms are the cheapest). It was larger and lighter than any other Parisian hotel room I have stayed in — I spent most of my time with my face pressed to the window looking down over the incredible views of the Seine as it forks around picturesque Île St Louis, and identifying Rive Gauche landmarks: the dome of the Panthéon, the Tour Montparnasse and, further away if I really craned my neck, the Eiffel Tower. Even when sitting up in bed, I could still look down on the steady stream of bateaux mouches and other vessels purring past. My visit coincided with a grève nationale (national strike) day, and even though from my 14th-floor eyrie, I felt completely removed from the action, I could still hear police sirens through the double glazing and make out the slow march of a manifestation on the quai opposite.
The room itself was cosily contemporary, with a slatted beechwood wardrobe and drinks cabinet, a Bluetooth speaker in the form of a large bulldog and (non-removable) Codage shower products in the en suite. A bedside phone suggested a range of services from “City Guides” and “Neat and Tidy” to Bonnie restaurant for room service; minibar soft drinks were included, but nothing stronger.
Restaurant
Bonnie, run by Paris Society, a separate entity from the hotel, is a super- scene-y bar/club/restaurant across the top two floors, with 360-degree views and Paris’s most Instagrammable balcony. While an excellent breakfast there is included (if you reserve at the point of booking your room), there are no guarantees as a hotel guest that you will automatically be seated for lunch or dinner, as word is out on this spectacular new perspective on the city, so you need to reserve well in advance.
An upscale French restaurant with “the New York touch”, the menu includes Caesar salad, lobster rolls to share, well-done classics such as sole meunière, asperges blanches (when in season) and snails in parsley butter, as well as fun hybrid inventions such as “Paris New York”, a take on the Paris-Brest with a crunchy peanut topping. The wine list reflects this cultural exchange too, with a decent by-the-glass selection including Sancerre, Chablis and, from Francis Ford Coppola’s vineyard, a creamy Californian Chardonnay too.
Spa
Again, separate from the hotel, but with an entente cordiale, guests can book into a small but groovy spa on floor minus-1. It’s run by Codage, a natural skincare brand that began in the nearby Marais, and treatments are bespoke to your needs with a wide selection of serums for every skin type. On my visit, the therapist fired up the hammam for me so I could sweat out the Chardonnay before my very good facial. The playlist was so cool that I tracked it down on Spotify to listen to while walking across the city later.
Fitness centre
Next to the spa is a fitness complex with a gym and an attractive pool that is not owned by the hotel, but is open to guests. Call first before you pad down there in your robe and slippers; on my visit, there was a two-hour children’s swim session. It may not have the same level of luxe as the hotel above, but a 20-metre pool in Paris is not to be sniffed at.
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Good for: Extraordinary views across the city; spotting supermodels
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Not so good for: Those on a budget, and location is not super-central, though nothing is far in Paris
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FYI: Baths in suites only. The restaurant and bar is separate, so book well in advance; there is an unspoken dress code — no shorts!
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Rooms: 162 including 22 suites
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Double: From €500
Rebecca Rose was a guest of SO/Paris hotel.
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